Wow it's been a year already. The Plex Server has been working great, my daughter uses it occasionally when she can't find anything she wants to watch on streaming services (so not that often these days).
I have switched focus back to 3D printing. I got into 3D printing in 2012 with a Solidoodle 2. It worked well enough but indoctrinated me to the deficiencies of 3D printing. Then Solidoodle as a company failed (2015) so there was no upgrade path. My Solidoodle "broke" and I finally donated it to a maker space.
Years passed and I was anxious to see what advances have been made in the 3D printing world. In the interim the industry had a large shakeout as everyone recognized the limitations of the current technology. I started watching YouTube channels to bone up on the current state of 3D printing.
I set my sites on 2 printers, the Creality CR-10 for it's quality and huge build volume (300x300x400mm) or the Anet A8, for it's low cost and "good enough" build volume (220x220x240mm). The Creality clocks in around $370 and the Anet A8 is only $160. The Anet A8 is a DIY kit, whereas the Creality CR-10 is mostly assembled. I opted for the Anet A8 since pulling the trigger on a $160 purchase isn't a big deal.
I am so glad I bought the Anet A8! A DIY kit is just what I needed to forge a deeper understanding of FDM technology. And the Anet A8 is a good printer "out of the gate" but benefits from numerous printable "upgrades" that improve performance and use.
I'm still getting my bearings with the Anet A8, and my improvements have been limited to things I can print and a PEI sheet for the print bed ($15). I just ordered a bunch of parts to upgrade the bed and extruder power distribution, the factory state is barely adequate and perhaps dangerous. I also added a fused power switch ($8), and cleaned up X & Y belt tensioning (with big improvement in print quality).
And in homage to my love of the Raspberry Pi I've setup an Octoprint server to manage print jobs. Octoprint is an opensource (free) application that acts as a management interface for 3D printers. I added a camera (pi cam for $25) and now have timelapse videos of my print jobs. Pretty cool.
Sunday, March 25, 2018
Tuesday, January 24, 2017
Pi Drive!
I'm still playing around with the Raspberry Pi. I stick to the '3', there isn't a big cost savings using the earlier models and there's a big performance hit. Plus all my cases and other accessories are guaranteed to fit.
My Plex media server project is coming along. I just found out yesterday that my daughter has another 20 DVDs for me to rip, but once that is done I should be in good shape. As it stands I have about 780GB of data, requiring me to abandon my plan of using an SSD (too costly) and switching to a standard laptop drive.
Standard 2.5" hard drives have SATA interfaces, and the pi natively only works with USB drives. So you need a USB-to-SATA adapter, which are pretty common as they are used in drive upgrade kits. But Western Digital recognized an opportunity and created a 2.5" drive with a USB interface called the "PiDrive". I picked up a 1TB version for about $55 (way cheaper than an SSD).
Since the USB interface is 2.0, it takes about 15 hours to copy all the data to the drive. I'm waiting for my stackable case to come in so I can construct the finished product. I've hooked everything up for testing and I can stream HD videos to my Xbox One via the Plex client (which is free!).
What I am discovering are problems in the ripping of some movies. Mostly it's the case where multiple version of the content exist on the DVD, some with annoying commentary. In these cases I have dig up the disk, re-rip it, then update the image on the drive. I've only see 3 or 4 of these issues, but I'm concerned there could be more, I have no way of knowing without previewing a large sampling of movies.
My Plex media server project is coming along. I just found out yesterday that my daughter has another 20 DVDs for me to rip, but once that is done I should be in good shape. As it stands I have about 780GB of data, requiring me to abandon my plan of using an SSD (too costly) and switching to a standard laptop drive.
Standard 2.5" hard drives have SATA interfaces, and the pi natively only works with USB drives. So you need a USB-to-SATA adapter, which are pretty common as they are used in drive upgrade kits. But Western Digital recognized an opportunity and created a 2.5" drive with a USB interface called the "PiDrive". I picked up a 1TB version for about $55 (way cheaper than an SSD).
Since the USB interface is 2.0, it takes about 15 hours to copy all the data to the drive. I'm waiting for my stackable case to come in so I can construct the finished product. I've hooked everything up for testing and I can stream HD videos to my Xbox One via the Plex client (which is free!).
What I am discovering are problems in the ripping of some movies. Mostly it's the case where multiple version of the content exist on the DVD, some with annoying commentary. In these cases I have dig up the disk, re-rip it, then update the image on the drive. I've only see 3 or 4 of these issues, but I'm concerned there could be more, I have no way of knowing without previewing a large sampling of movies.
Saturday, January 14, 2017
Media Serving
Wow! It's been a while. Not a lot has gone on though, so you haven't missed anything.
My asteroids arcade cabinet is still in pieces and needs a working monitor, that ain't happening any time soon.
What is happening is RetroPi. I discovered the Raspberry Pi when I was hunting for a low-cost solution to host my Plex Media server. I guess a little of the backstory is due.
I have a lot of DVDs. At first I thought it was perhaps 3-400, but now it's looking more like +500 as searching around the house keeps turning up more DVDs (and some Blu Rays!). Years ago (early 2000s) I had looked into ripping my DVDs along the lines of what I had previously done with my music library. At the time the technology and storage costs didn't make this simple (or cheap), but a lot has changed since then.
Not only is storage cheap, not only are there scads of tools that make this process easy, but there are now free tools that make serving the media easy. The one I settled on is Plex because I use an Xbox One as my "media center" and there's a Plex app for my console that makes viewing the content simple.
So the Xbone has a client, but there's a server that needs to host the content and serve it to the client. For this I pressed a retired computer into service, it's about 3500 passmarks in terms of performance so it can easily server out the video streams. In addition it happens to have a 2TB drive, and since video files are big (typically 300-700mb per DVD, 3-6gb for Blu Rays), size matters.
So Plex is basically free, at least for how I'm using it (server -> xbone). I've been ripping my DVD library for weeks and have over 700 files (I have some series that contain multiple episodes per DVD), or about 690GB of data.
I'm using Media Center Master (MCM) to add metadata and organization to the video library. Plex will do a decent job of pulling metadata based on the video image file name, but collecting this information with MCM helps a lot and removes all ambiguities. For ripping the image from the DVD, I use HandBrake, which requires libcssdvd-2.dll in order to process encrypted DVD images (virtually all DVD images are encrypted). For DVDs with more robust encryption you'll need something like AnyDVD. There's a 21 day trial, which is probably enough to digitize your content, but if you think you'll need it on an ongoing basis be prepared to spring $50 or so for a license. You will need AnyDVD (or equivalent), about 5% of the DVDs in my library, and all the Blu Rays, required it.
Ripping is a royal pain in the ass! Handbrake does a good job of selecting the most likely master video file on the DVD, but it can be occasionally wrong. Ripping episodes from a series is probably the most difficult, in some cases the episode number is very hard to replicate.
It's important that when you put the files on the media server you segregate TV episodes and Movies. This will help Plex a lot, and tools like MCM benefit as well (when scanning episodes for metadata). Keep it simple:
Media
\__ TV Shows
\__ Movies
\__Home Movies
Raspberry Pi 3
How the raspberry pi figures into this is that hosting all these files on a PC, that will be up 24/7 adds up, figure 100 watts of electricity and a big, noisy machine. An embedded solution will be much less expensive to run (~10 watts), run silently and take of virtually no space (a deck of cards). The challenge is finding an embedded solution with enough cpu power to serve the video, particularly if transcoding is required.
Transcoding is the process of modifying the video stream to fit characteristics of the client. This can be the result of a need to change the resolution or the encoding standard that differs from how the video was ripped and stored. Transcoding is a very cpu-intensive process, and the typical embedded computer is not up to the task.
Fortunately the Raspberry Pi 3 represents a significant compute upgrade and can handle a transcoding a single video stream. At $35 it is also a very economical solution. In addition to the pi, you'll need a power supply (micro-usb, 2.0 amps at least) and a harddrive for the video files. The harddrive has to have a USB interface, the Raspberry Pi has 4, USB 2.0 ports, no way to connect SATA or IDE drives. Also, if the drive requires a lot of power (>1.2A), you may have to power it externally. In most situations, a 1TB, 2.5" drive with a USB-to-SATA conversion cable should do the trick.
My asteroids arcade cabinet is still in pieces and needs a working monitor, that ain't happening any time soon.
What is happening is RetroPi. I discovered the Raspberry Pi when I was hunting for a low-cost solution to host my Plex Media server. I guess a little of the backstory is due.
I have a lot of DVDs. At first I thought it was perhaps 3-400, but now it's looking more like +500 as searching around the house keeps turning up more DVDs (and some Blu Rays!). Years ago (early 2000s) I had looked into ripping my DVDs along the lines of what I had previously done with my music library. At the time the technology and storage costs didn't make this simple (or cheap), but a lot has changed since then.
Not only is storage cheap, not only are there scads of tools that make this process easy, but there are now free tools that make serving the media easy. The one I settled on is Plex because I use an Xbox One as my "media center" and there's a Plex app for my console that makes viewing the content simple.
So the Xbone has a client, but there's a server that needs to host the content and serve it to the client. For this I pressed a retired computer into service, it's about 3500 passmarks in terms of performance so it can easily server out the video streams. In addition it happens to have a 2TB drive, and since video files are big (typically 300-700mb per DVD, 3-6gb for Blu Rays), size matters.
So Plex is basically free, at least for how I'm using it (server -> xbone). I've been ripping my DVD library for weeks and have over 700 files (I have some series that contain multiple episodes per DVD), or about 690GB of data.
I'm using Media Center Master (MCM) to add metadata and organization to the video library. Plex will do a decent job of pulling metadata based on the video image file name, but collecting this information with MCM helps a lot and removes all ambiguities. For ripping the image from the DVD, I use HandBrake, which requires libcssdvd-2.dll in order to process encrypted DVD images (virtually all DVD images are encrypted). For DVDs with more robust encryption you'll need something like AnyDVD. There's a 21 day trial, which is probably enough to digitize your content, but if you think you'll need it on an ongoing basis be prepared to spring $50 or so for a license. You will need AnyDVD (or equivalent), about 5% of the DVDs in my library, and all the Blu Rays, required it.
Ripping is a royal pain in the ass! Handbrake does a good job of selecting the most likely master video file on the DVD, but it can be occasionally wrong. Ripping episodes from a series is probably the most difficult, in some cases the episode number is very hard to replicate.
It's important that when you put the files on the media server you segregate TV episodes and Movies. This will help Plex a lot, and tools like MCM benefit as well (when scanning episodes for metadata). Keep it simple:
Media
\__ TV Shows
\__ Movies
\__Home Movies
Raspberry Pi 3
How the raspberry pi figures into this is that hosting all these files on a PC, that will be up 24/7 adds up, figure 100 watts of electricity and a big, noisy machine. An embedded solution will be much less expensive to run (~10 watts), run silently and take of virtually no space (a deck of cards). The challenge is finding an embedded solution with enough cpu power to serve the video, particularly if transcoding is required.
Transcoding is the process of modifying the video stream to fit characteristics of the client. This can be the result of a need to change the resolution or the encoding standard that differs from how the video was ripped and stored. Transcoding is a very cpu-intensive process, and the typical embedded computer is not up to the task.
Fortunately the Raspberry Pi 3 represents a significant compute upgrade and can handle a transcoding a single video stream. At $35 it is also a very economical solution. In addition to the pi, you'll need a power supply (micro-usb, 2.0 amps at least) and a harddrive for the video files. The harddrive has to have a USB interface, the Raspberry Pi has 4, USB 2.0 ports, no way to connect SATA or IDE drives. Also, if the drive requires a lot of power (>1.2A), you may have to power it externally. In most situations, a 1TB, 2.5" drive with a USB-to-SATA conversion cable should do the trick.
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
The hunt is on!
The parts came in! So now I have 2N3716 & 2N3792 replacements for the power transistors that drive the vector monitor yolk. These are the ones mounted on the case in TO-2 cases (metal).
I also had MU-07 and MU-57 on hand, and Mouser had MSP8098, it's a replacement for the TIS98 that is used throughout the deflection amplifier circuitry.
So I pulled all these transistors on one of the G05-805 monitors that I have, soldered in the new parts, checked the TO-2 packages to make sure they weren't shorted the collector to the heatsink and turned everything on. The spot killer is still lit up. I did a little sleuthing and realized there's a 2N3906 that's pretty integral to the deflection circuitry and it's the only transistor that I didn't replace, so I swapped those out as well.
No joy, the monitor is still dead. So at this point I have done the following:
I also had MU-07 and MU-57 on hand, and Mouser had MSP8098, it's a replacement for the TIS98 that is used throughout the deflection amplifier circuitry.
So I pulled all these transistors on one of the G05-805 monitors that I have, soldered in the new parts, checked the TO-2 packages to make sure they weren't shorted the collector to the heatsink and turned everything on. The spot killer is still lit up. I did a little sleuthing and realized there's a 2N3906 that's pretty integral to the deflection circuitry and it's the only transistor that I didn't replace, so I swapped those out as well.
No joy, the monitor is still dead. So at this point I have done the following:
- Cap kit
- Swap all deflection transistors (MU-07, MU-57, TIS98, 2N3906, 2N3716 and 2N3792)
Saturday, June 9, 2012
Coming along
I got a chance to spend a little time with the Asteroids today. Turns out I had a spare 2N3055 transistor, it was part of the Williams power supply get well kit. Since I have gotten rid of the Williams games (Defender & Stargate), I made good use of it in the Atari AR1. Now I have my Asteroids board working with the proper Audio/Regulator board, on to fixing the monitor.
I have two G05-805 (15") B/W vector monitors. I didn't think either would work but they are both failing in the same way - the spot killer is on. I suspect it's the XY drive transistors (the 2N3716 and 2N3792) but don't have any spares so it's time to place an order. I also plan to pick up a replacement for the big capacitor in the power supply, and a knob for the volume control. It would be great if I could make an extension cable so the monitor doesn't have to be so close to the motherboard, I'm working on locating the parts I need to do that (I have the monitor-end, I need the motherboard-end).
So it may be a few days before I get the parts I need to make any more progress, in the meantime I brought in the top glass for the cocktail table and I'll start cleaning things up.
I have two G05-805 (15") B/W vector monitors. I didn't think either would work but they are both failing in the same way - the spot killer is on. I suspect it's the XY drive transistors (the 2N3716 and 2N3792) but don't have any spares so it's time to place an order. I also plan to pick up a replacement for the big capacitor in the power supply, and a knob for the volume control. It would be great if I could make an extension cable so the monitor doesn't have to be so close to the motherboard, I'm working on locating the parts I need to do that (I have the monitor-end, I need the motherboard-end).
So it may be a few days before I get the parts I need to make any more progress, in the meantime I brought in the top glass for the cocktail table and I'll start cleaning things up.
Friday, June 8, 2012
It's alive! Sort of...
I had some time to work on the asteroids game. I've pulled it all apart, cleaned it up some, and assembled it on my "work bench".
You can see in the upper right corner my Zektor ZVG. I use it to drive a 19V2000 vector monitor so I can play all the vector games using VectorMAME. This is also a convenient way to test monitors out with known good signal sources.
Notice the Audio Regulator, it's an AR2, though an Asteroids cocktail needs an AR1. The AR1 was producing the correct voltages until it was under load (connected to the other board), then the +5V supply dropped to about 1V, which isn't going to work. I remembered I had an AR2 laying around, and it's pin compatible with the AR1 (though much larger and produces more voltages from different molex connectors). This brought the board right up.
My next step was to hook up the scope and see if the Asteroids board was indeed working. After looking at the 6MHZ test point (good) and seeing good stuff on XOUT and YOUT test points, I opted to set the scopy in XY mode. I could see a very crude Asteroids display. Next step was to plug in the 19V2000, and Asteroids was alive!
Now I'm not out of the woods. I have to get the AR1 working, and the cocktail doesn't fit a 19V2000, I need to get the 15 inch monitor working. But a lot of things are working.
I think the AR1's problem is the 2N3055, that's the big power transistor on the heatsink. The LM305 is regulating voltage, it's just when load is applied that the voltage drops, so hopefully this will be a simple fix. Before I compose an order to Bob Roberts I'm going to snoop around and see what else I might need so I can make one order. For now I can use the AR2 (though sadly I don't have any sound), and the 15" monitor will now be my main electronics focus.
I should mention I have two Asteroids mother boards, and one of them is not working, so at some point I'm going to need to work on that problem as well.
You can see in the upper right corner my Zektor ZVG. I use it to drive a 19V2000 vector monitor so I can play all the vector games using VectorMAME. This is also a convenient way to test monitors out with known good signal sources.
 |
| Atari Audio Regulator 1 |
Notice the Audio Regulator, it's an AR2, though an Asteroids cocktail needs an AR1. The AR1 was producing the correct voltages until it was under load (connected to the other board), then the +5V supply dropped to about 1V, which isn't going to work. I remembered I had an AR2 laying around, and it's pin compatible with the AR1 (though much larger and produces more voltages from different molex connectors). This brought the board right up.
My next step was to hook up the scope and see if the Asteroids board was indeed working. After looking at the 6MHZ test point (good) and seeing good stuff on XOUT and YOUT test points, I opted to set the scopy in XY mode. I could see a very crude Asteroids display. Next step was to plug in the 19V2000, and Asteroids was alive!
Now I'm not out of the woods. I have to get the AR1 working, and the cocktail doesn't fit a 19V2000, I need to get the 15 inch monitor working. But a lot of things are working.
I think the AR1's problem is the 2N3055, that's the big power transistor on the heatsink. The LM305 is regulating voltage, it's just when load is applied that the voltage drops, so hopefully this will be a simple fix. Before I compose an order to Bob Roberts I'm going to snoop around and see what else I might need so I can make one order. For now I can use the AR2 (though sadly I don't have any sound), and the 15" monitor will now be my main electronics focus.
I should mention I have two Asteroids mother boards, and one of them is not working, so at some point I'm going to need to work on that problem as well.
Thursday, June 7, 2012
Asteroids Cocktail
So I've started the restoration of the Asteroids cocktail. I purchased the cabinet with no mother board (and I didn't notice at the time but missing the Audio/Regulator board as well), with the assurance that it all worked. I had no belief it would work given a new board set, and regardless I want to strip it down, clean it up and do a proper, if not exhaustive, restoration job on it.
Above is a view of the inside of the cabinet. Now that I have boards this is "parts complete", so the work that needs to be done is to tear it all apart and then clean things up. I will need to get everything working, but I'll do that outside of the cabinet so I can have more control and access to the components. This means pulling out the power supply. I have to decide how far I'm going to go with this restoration, I'm thinking of stripping the power supply apart and refinishing the metal.
Thankfully the outside of the Asteroids cabinet is black so I won't have to search all of Christendom for matching wood grain contact paper like I had to for the Pacman restoration.
Above is a view of the inside of the cabinet. Now that I have boards this is "parts complete", so the work that needs to be done is to tear it all apart and then clean things up. I will need to get everything working, but I'll do that outside of the cabinet so I can have more control and access to the components. This means pulling out the power supply. I have to decide how far I'm going to go with this restoration, I'm thinking of stripping the power supply apart and refinishing the metal.
Thankfully the outside of the Asteroids cabinet is black so I won't have to search all of Christendom for matching wood grain contact paper like I had to for the Pacman restoration.
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